Tip for sewing a perfect curved patch pocket

Today I wanted to share a great sewing tip with you that I recently learned from the Crafsty class "40 Techniques Every Sewer Should Know" (highly recommended!). I was immediately able to put it into practice on the 1940s blouse I am currently sewing, Advance 2943:


If you have an unlined pocket that is curved at the bottom there is an easy and quick method to press that seam allowance under in a smooth curve. (Basically, it's the same principle you use to ease a sleeve into an armhole, or easy in a hem of a full skirt.) Here's what you have to do:

1. Ease stitch

Mark the seam allowance on your pocket and with the longest stitch on your machine, ease stitch along the curve, just into the seam allowance.

2. Pull up threads

Trim you seam allowance down to about 1/4" and pull threads. Pull them only slightly - pulling them up too much will create gathers and that's not what you want! You can always pull them up a little more later if you need to. As you can see, the pocket already wants to shape into a curve!

3. Press

Now you can press you seam allowance under and it shouldn't be too hard to press it into a nice smooth curve. I noticed that you may get little pleats which have a tendency to create little corners/points in your curve. Try to eliminate them by ironing. If they won't budge, give the seam allowance a little clip, up to the stitching line.

4. Finish

Finish your pocket and marvel at your pretty curve!


Now if you also stitch them on to your garment straight you will really have a prefect pocket :')